In today’s era of mass production and ease, the term “handmade” has evolved into a symbol of authenticity, creative spirit, and uniqueness. But what truly falls under the category of handmade? For artisans, simply piecing together store-bought parts or replicating another’s design is not enough. Real craftsmanship demands considerable effort, a transformative process, and genuine originality—a process that mirrors the artisan’s vision, hard work, and expertise. Yet, on many markets and platforms that purport to celebrate handmade goods, the true meaning of craftsmanship often becomes watered down. This begs the question: How can we maintain the integrity of artisanal work in a world where shortcuts are frequently mistaken for creativity?

Plagiarism in Art

Many art schools suggest that altering someone else’s design by at least 15% is enough to steer clear of plagiarism accusations—a notion I find deeply flawed. This idea rests on two assumptions:

• “Everything has already been done.”

• “True originality is impossible, so innovation is the only realistic path forward in fields like fashion, jewelry, and art.”

This reasoning isn’t merely a matter of opinion; it’s logically unsound. Consider how criminal law in British Columbia distinguishes between a “guilty mind” (intent) and a “guilty act” (the action itself), a differentiation that clarifies whether a crime was accidental or deliberate. When an artist deliberately incorporates someone else’s design into their own work, they possess a “guilty mind.” Instead of innovating, they’re taking an easy route by leveraging another’s creativity. On the other hand, if an artist independently creates something that happens to resemble another’s work, it isn’t plagiarism—it’s an independent creation born of their own intent and effort, free from intellectual theft.

Raw Materials and the Meaning of Handmade

Another key aspect in defining “handmade” is the role of raw materials. Transforming raw materials is not about being innovative per se—it’s a necessary part of the process. For example, woodworkers must work with milled lumber and metalworkers with refined metal. While growing one’s own trees or personally mining and refining metal might seem admirable, it is neither practical nor an expected standard for most artisans.

However, utilizing pre-processed materials—such as sugar for bakers or fabric for seamstresses—is completely legitimate. These industries supply raw or semi-finished goods that allow artisans to focus on honing their craft rather than reinventing the production process. The critical point is knowing where to draw the line: simply altering raw materials or outsourcing labor without substantial personal involvement does not meet the criteria of “handmade.”

Handmade vs. Assembled: A Personal Comparison

As a jeweler, I acquire my materials through various means. Each year, I extract up to 300 kilograms of stone from across North America and process these stones myself. Although I also purchase raw stone from wholesale channels, I personally cut, shape, and polish 90% of the stones used in my designs. Additionally, I supply semi-prepared stones to other gem cutters and provide finished stones for fellow jewelers.

Beyond working with stones, I manage my own metalwork by melting down silver scraps and re-milling them into unique designs. I modify my machinery, craft many of my own tools, and even develop proprietary diamond compounds and custom modeling wax blends. My studio, spanning over 1,000 square feet and equipped with specialized machinery, stands as a testament to the immense effort invested in every piece I create.

In contrast, consider someone who buys a ready-made pendant on eBay, threads it onto a chain, and then labels it “handmade,” or a bead-stringer who arranges pre-made beads in a visually pleasing pattern and calls it jewelry. These practices lack the depth of effort, skill, and transformative process that are essential to genuinely earning the title of “artisan.”

The Thorn in My Side

It is incredibly frustrating to see such products in artisan markets. These creators market their work alongside mine, competing for the same customers while claiming the title of “artisan.” How does stringing together store-bought beads—a task I mastered in kindergarten—compare to the extensive work required to mine, cut, polish, and set stones, not to mention design and fabricate complex metal settings?

To me, this kind of work falls into the category of “assembly jewelry.” It’s akin to simply rearranging furniture and then declaring oneself an interior designer. While aesthetic appeal is important, it cannot replace the skill, labor, and true craftsmanship that define genuine artistry.

What Defines an Artisan?

The hallmark of an artisan’s work is transformation. Just as a blacksmith shapes raw metal with hammer and fire or a baker transforms basic ingredients into a cake, an artisan must alter their materials so fundamentally that the original components become unrecognizable.

Artisans aren’t required to invent groundbreaking designs. Even a simple geometric form or a raw stone polished to accentuate nature’s inherent beauty can be deemed “handmade,” provided the creator has put in substantial work. This effort must transcend mere assembly or superficial modifications.

Some individuals who label themselves as artisans avoid taking on challenging work out of fear of failure or due to limited expertise, remaining in a “safe zone” of simple tasks. In contrast, true artisans overcome these fears and engage deeply with their materials. The evidence of their labor—such as file marks, imperfect finishes, and unique touches—sets the genuine artisan apart from a hobbyist.

Manufacturing vs. Design

The steps taken to bring a product into being ultimately define its authenticity. Design is akin to engineering; it involves a meticulous process of planning, testing, and refining until the final product embodies the artisan’s vision. This is true for both functional and decorative items.

For an item to be authentically “handmade,” its creation must involve irreversible transformations. For example, simply stringing beads onto a thread does not qualify, as the beads remain essentially unchanged. In contrast, processes like carving, shaping, or fusing materials to create something entirely new are what truly define handmade craftsmanship.

Artisans and Ethics

Consumers often choose artisanal goods for ethical reasons. They are drawn to products made from reclaimed or responsibly sourced materials and appreciate creators who strive to minimize environmental impact. As artisans, we work hard to meet these ethical standards.

Allowing individuals who merely assemble pre-made components into artisan markets undermines consumer trust. It not only disrespects artisans who invest significant time, effort, and ethical considerations into their work but also risks reducing artisan markets to glorified flea markets, where quality and craftsmanship give way to convenience and profit.

Final Thoughts

Artisanship is about more than the final product—it encompasses the entire journey. It embodies the thought, labor, and integrity poured into every step of the process. When artisans dedicate themselves to transforming raw materials into something meaningful and unique, they set a standard that enriches communities and elevates the craft itself.

Consumers play a crucial role in this ecosystem. By questioning the origins of the products they purchase and supporting creators who demonstrate genuine craftsmanship, they help preserve the integrity of handmade artistry. It is essential that markets and platforms committed to supporting artisans enforce high standards to protect the true meaning of “handmade.”

Artisanship deserves to be celebrated, not diluted. By establishing and upholding meaningful standards in a world awash with shortcuts, we ensure that the spirit of genuine craftsmanship continues to thrive.